Menya Rui features scratch-made Japanese-style noodles in a tradition-inspired shop in Lindenwood Park | Restaurants | feastmagazine.com

2022-06-18 22:41:33 By : Ms. Maggie Wang

A selection of items from Menya Rui (clockwise from top left): karaage, tantanmen brothless mazemen, original tsukemen and pork shoyu ramen.

Pork shoyu ramen with aromatic rendered back fat topped with pork shoulder chasyu, menma, scallions and nori.

Karaage, or Japanese fried chicken, with lemon wedge and Kewpie mayo.

Tsukemen, which is made with a thicker, cold-rinsed noodle, comes served with a concentrated scallop aroma dipping broth, topped with pork shoulder chasyu, menma, scallions and nori.

Tantanmen brothless mazemen with thick noodles tossed in chili oil, sesame paste and house shoyu, topped with ground pork, menma, scallions and bean sprouts.

The shop’s imported noodle-making machine can be viewed through an interior window.

Modeled after its Japanese counterparts, the casual concept features dine-in only, walk-in service.

Each bowl of noodles is made to order with layered elements including aromatic oils, toppings and tare, or concentrated seasoning mixtures.

A thinner noodle is used for soups, while a thicker noodle is made for dipping and brothless noodle bowls.

Around 25 seats are available through the approximately 960-square-foot space.

The concept is an homage to Pursley’s time spent honing the craft while living in Japan.

Now open in Lindenwood Park.

St. Louis has a new from-scratch Japanese noodle shop. Menya Rui opened on April 21 in Lindenwood Park in the space previously occupied by F&B’s Eatery, featuring housemade ramen, tsukemen (dipping noodles) and mazemen (brothless noodles) alongside a selection of appetizers.

As reported by Feast in November, the concept comes from chef-owner Steven Pursley, who launched pop-up Ramen x Rui in 2018 after spending three years honing his skills at ramen shops in his mother’s hometown, Okinawa, as well as in mainland Japan. The popular pop-up started in his apartment and later took place at locations including The Benevolent King and Indo, where Pursley moonlighted as a line cook. With Menya Rui, which gets its name from the Japanese word for noodle shop, “menya,” as well as Pursley’s Japanese name, Rui, the rising star chef showcases the evolution of his culinary experiences with his first brick-and-mortar eatery.

After popping up at Indo and The Benevolent King, chef-owner Steven Pursley is ready for a place of his own.

“It’s been a long journey and I’m excited to finally put myself out there,” Pursley says. “It’s been well-received so far and I hope people continue to rock with it.”

The casual walk-in restaurant is modeled after its Japanese counterparts, with dine-in only service in a cozy, rustic setting outfitted with bamboo ceilings and custom concrete tabletops made locally by AKT Studios. Classic Japanese décor embellishes the walls, while the shop’s centerpiece – a noodle machine imported from Japan – can be seen through an interior reclaimed factory window.

According to Pursley, his noodles are made with three different flours with varying levels of protein, blended at different ratios to achieve desirable texture and chew. Kansui (lye water), he explains, is the distinguishing ingredient in creating ramen noodles, lending them unique water-resistant properties for signature dishes including his best-selling pork shoyu ramen.

“Before I moved to Japan, I was really stuck on doing tonkotsu-style ramen with an opaque bone broth, but the first shop I worked with did something in a completely different style that I fell in love with – clear chicken soup with rendered back fat floating on top. The sweet aroma mixed with salty soy-flavored broth is very nostalgic and brings back memories of working there,” Pursley says.

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Menya Rui’s signature, best-selling pork shoyu ramen features the aromatic rendered back fat topped with pork shoulder chasyu, menma (bamboo shoots), scallions and nori. Additional noodle soup options include chicken shoyu ramen, as well as tantanmen ramen, which Pursley describes as the Japanese interpretation of Chinese Dan Dan noodles with chili oil, sesame paste, ground pork, menma, scallions and bean sprouts.

Tsukemen, which is made with a thicker, cold-rinsed noodle, comes served with a concentrated scallop aroma dipping broth, topped with pork shoulder chasyu, menma, scallions and nori. Mazemen, or brothless noodles, which Pursley instructs diners to “mix and eat like Asian pasta,” also utilizes the thicker noodles. They’re available in the tantanmen style or tossed with scallop oil and house shoyu, topped with pork shoulder chasyu, menma, gyofun, nori and bean sprouts.

Appetizer options include house cucumbers – traditional rice vinegar pickles and a miso-dressed cucumber – and karaage, or Japanese fried chicken, served with a lemon wedge and Kewpie mayo. A liquor license is in the works, but for now, choose from canned green tea and bottled Fanta to pair with the noodle shop’s handmade fare.

Menya Rui is open Thursday through Sunday from 5 to 10pm.

Menya Rui, 3453 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.601.3524, facebook.com/menyaruistl

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Mabel Suen is the St. Louis contributing editor for Feast.

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A selection of items from Menya Rui (clockwise from top left): karaage, tantanmen brothless mazemen, original tsukemen and pork shoyu ramen.

Pork shoyu ramen with aromatic rendered back fat topped with pork shoulder chasyu, menma, scallions and nori.

Karaage, or Japanese fried chicken, with lemon wedge and Kewpie mayo.

Tsukemen, which is made with a thicker, cold-rinsed noodle, comes served with a concentrated scallop aroma dipping broth, topped with pork shoulder chasyu, menma, scallions and nori.

Tantanmen brothless mazemen with thick noodles tossed in chili oil, sesame paste and house shoyu, topped with ground pork, menma, scallions and bean sprouts.

The shop’s imported noodle-making machine can be viewed through an interior window.

Modeled after its Japanese counterparts, the casual concept features dine-in only, walk-in service.

Each bowl of noodles is made to order with layered elements including aromatic oils, toppings and tare, or concentrated seasoning mixtures.

A thinner noodle is used for soups, while a thicker noodle is made for dipping and brothless noodle bowls.

Around 25 seats are available through the approximately 960-square-foot space.

The concept is an homage to Pursley’s time spent honing the craft while living in Japan.

Now open in Lindenwood Park.