Best & Worst 2022: Food & Drink - richmondmagazine.com

2022-08-27 07:37:40 By : Mr. Todd Zhang

This article has been edited since it first appeared in print.

Stella's (Photo by Jay Paul)

Stella’s / Stella’s Grocery

“I love to dine out, but it’s hard for me to turn my brain off and relax,” says Stella’s co-owner Katrina Giavos, who instinctively analyzes acoustics, ambiance and, of course, what’s on plate, always in restaurateur mode.  Adapting to pandemic changes, Stella’s increased takeout options at its markets and added patio seating at its flagship restaurant, where you’ll see the Giavoses’ vintage car collection parked on Lafayette Street. Their daughter’s adjacent lifestyle store, Our Life, morphed into a coffee, wine and mezze lounge among artisanal Grecian garments. The Giavos family and their staff, including Executive Chef Russ Williams, travel to Greece this month for further R&D as the Malvern Gardens Stella’s Grocery preps for expansion.

1. Stella’s / Stella’s Grocery 

3. Tie: Bell Greek Cuisine; The Grapevine; More Than Greek  

From colorful tempeh taco salad prepared with marinated tempeh, red onion, and black bean and corn salsa to croissants overflowing with house-made tuna salad and breakfast burritos, Union Market in Union Hill offers a wide variety of lunch and dinner items. Sip on a iced coffee or a draft beer while enjoying a meal on the patio.

917 W. Grace St., 804-213-0190

The Fan’s charmingly cavelike and exclusively vegetarian gem is at the top of the list, and it’s no surprise, with a menu populated by excellent homemade versions of all kinds of veg and vegan staples (black bean burgers, Buffalo cauliflower tacos, that awesome tofu Caesar). But the seasonal specials are tempting enough to divert diners from the strongest veggie burger craving. Some stars: Sichuan eggplant and tarragon sous vide carrots with tempeh lardons.

2. Tie: Fresca on Addison; Yummvees 

“Our approach to everything here is to make everything as good and consistent as possible,” says Pinky’s chef and co-owner Stephen DeRaffele. “On the menu since the restaurant’s inception, the chargrilled octopus remains a top-seller. Prepared with black garlic, smoked paprika oil, grilled radicchio and Hasselback potato, the dish is one that DeRaffele says “symbolizes our restaurant as a whole — it’s a good-looking dish that’s sharable and balanced.”

3. Tie: Cocodrilo; Conejo; Pizza Bones

Tie: Boka Tako; River City Wood Fire Pizza; Zorch Pizza

Richmond has a soft spot for a bite on wheels, and the three-way tie between these mobile ventures proves our unwavering adoration. Around since 2010, Boka Tako travels across the region, but Monday through Friday parks a truck at 9th and Cary streets for lunch. Helmed by Joe Lajoie, River City Wood Fire Pizza launched in 2013, stemming from a small oven and a love for the dough. “We average between 850-1,500 dough balls a week,” Lajoie says. And although Zorch Pizza now has a permanent home base in Carytown, its truck can still be found slinging slices at area breweries.

ZZQ (Photo by Eileen Mellon)

3201 W. Moore St., 804-528-5648

If there’s a list of the best barbecue in America, chances are ZZQ is on it. Since opening in 2018, ZZQ has nabbed nods from Texas Monthly, Food & Wine, Thrillist and the Washington Post. It’s their devotion to detail that makes ZZQ stand out from other folks with smokers, and that’s what owners Chris Fultz and Alex Graf are counting on as they prepare to open Eazzy Burger with longtime collaborators Ardent Craft Ales.

Serving prime cuts and neat pours of scotch since 1994, Buckhead’s channels the classic steakhouse vibe. From the ubiquitous sides and starters such as escargot and creamed spinach to the exceptional waitstaff and its lengthy list of reds — continually recognized by Wine Spectator magazine — time stands still at this Patterson Avenue stalwart. Owner Mark Herndon says, “To further enhance our wine program, a wine cellar is on the horizon. The cellar expansion will allow us to store an additional 1,200 bottles.”

2. Tie: Hondos Steak House; Ruth’s Chris Steak House 

Feeding the masses is an unpredictable feat, and from events at Main Street Station to 1,000-person wedding banquets, Mosaic Catering and Events has been a reliable go-to for decades. Using hyper-seasonal ingredients and led by a tenured crew, Mosaic has also introduced express catering, offering a quick turnaround on thoughtfully curated — and plated — food for life’s last-minute celebrations.

Zorch Pizza (Photo by Justin Vaughan)

2923 W. Cary St., 804-562-0279

“We already had a lot of wonderful customers that would seek out the truck and now are regulars at the restaurant,” says owner Rob Zorch of debuting his namesake ’za shop in Carytown in 2021. Dishing out everything from Grandma-style slices to an upside-down version that pours vodka sauce on top, Zorch says buffalo wings and the option to grab a sixer with a slice are on the horizon.

Have you ever wondered what makes Gelati Celesti ice cream so creamy? President Steve Rosser credits a process that minimizes air during churning and takes full advantage of quality, rich ingredients. Known for their specialized flavors, the company’s best sellers are Chocolate Decadence and Just Ask — a white chocolate ice cream studded with with Oreos and peanut butter.

Making the world a “sweeter” place has always been a Shaheen family motto and tradition. Three Shaheen sisters — Kelly Polk, Holly Shaheen and Melissa Berling — purchased Pearl’s Bake Shoppe from owner Laurie Blakey earlier this year. “Good food makes people happy. It’s as simple as that,” Polk says. “We love knowing that we can provide the kind of gift that comes straight from the heart.”

3120 E. Marshall St., 804-325-3426

Sustainable seafood meets its best possible end in the hands of Alewife chef de cuisine Bobo Catoe, who is known for inventive takes on cuts like rockfish collars and mackerel tails. Three members of Alewife’s leadership team — Catoe, owner Lee Gregory and beverage director Andon Whitehorn — scored big at this year’s Rising Star Chefs Awards for D.C.-Chesapeake in the chef, mentor and bartender categories, respectively.

Lee’s Famous Recipe Chicken          

2200 W. Broad St., 804-355-1059

When asked if there were any exciting news or updates to share regarding the only Virginia location of the fried chicken chain, owner Henry Loving replies, “The exciting news is we are not changing our recipe.” Mic drop. After countless wins in this category over the years, it’s probably safe to say that Lee’s Famous Recipe Chicken knows exactly what it’s doing.

The beauty of Portico, says owner Paolo Randazzo, is that “you drive away from the city, through the woods, and then bam! — there’s our patio. It’s transportive.” Blooming in the summer, warmed by a towering stone fireplace in late fall and smelling of raindrops in the spring, Portico’s patio and chef Randazzo’s classic lamb risotto are never out of season.

2727 W. Broad St., 804-367-4992

Tasty morsels and cocktails abound at Sabai, the Broad Street eatery a carefully crafted atmosphere of tropical plants and ironwork. It’s a special spot, and if you’re lucky, you’ll get to sit on the swing seats. And if you’re super lucky, they’ll be serving slow-roasted lamb shank that night.

1537 W. Main St., 804-342-1800

Fun, hip and approachable, this outpost from EAT Restaurant Partners doubles as a popular Main Street watering hole. Cozy up to a bowl of steaming ramen and get slurping — the Malaysian, made with coconut broth, dotted with chili oil and adorned with a poached egg, is a crowd pleaser.

Kogi RVA (Photo by Jay Paul)

Kogi RVA (formerly J Kogi)        

325 N. Second St., 804-225-8734

Reintroducing itself late last year as Kogi RVA, this Korean-inspired Jackson Ward eatery also hit refresh on its menu. Bulgogi rib-eye and dak tori chicken bowls call for the house-made No Spicy No Cry sauce, while fire chicken wings and kimbap rolls are best eaten at the bar accompanied by a boba-based bevvie.

2. Tie: Bonchon; Gogi Bibimbap; Yewon 

3. Tie: Korean Garden; Zzaam! Fresh Korean Grill

6004 W. Broad St., 804-288-8929

Mekong boasts a menu of “Star Wars” opening crawl length that’s chock-full of all of the grilled platters, hot stone bowls, noodle soups and broken rice dishes you want, and in addition, it’s a killer destination for seafood. From May to September, belly up to a plate full of ginger scallion soft-shells (you can also get sweet and sour tamarind sauce — tough call). If it’s not summer, grab the crawfish xao rau que or the crispy rainbow trout with bamboo shoots.

11408 W. Broad St., 804-364-1688; 2816 W. Broad St., Suite A, 804-728-1820

A 2022 James Beard finalist for the nation’s most outstanding chef, Peter Chang is known for the fiery Sichuan food that he perfected cooking for dignitaries at the Chinese embassy. Chang’s mission is to introduce true Chinese food to new audiences, and he does so at a dozen restaurants throughout Virginia and Maryland, including two in Richmond. Chang plans to open his first D.C. restaurant, Chang Chang, this fall.

Head sushi chef Elias Mendoza’s love affair with tuna began as a daytime tryst, when he could often be found rolling bluefin behind Osaka’s sushi bar at lunch, before progressing to leading dinners at this River Road sashimi and steakhouse. One Monday — yes, the restaurant is open Mondays — spicy yellowtail crunch met bluefin tuna topped with avocado, making a nigiri ménage à trois appropriately called “blue moon roll.”

Photo courtesy TBT El Gallo

2118 W. Cary St., 804-918-0158

Mexican flavors meet Richmond style at this food-cart-turned-taqueria. Owner Carlos Ordaz-Nunez explains, “I’m not afraid to blaze my own path and modernize some techniques on my journey. Our food, while authentic, is really a love story of a culture as experienced through the perspective of second-generation Latino. I don’t view Mexican food the same way that my parents do, and I think that’s what really defines TBT El Gallo.”

The team at Mexico does more than whip up amazing, customized guacamole and hearty barbacoa plates — they’re also community builders. Open since 1990, the family-run venture support charities, educational initiatives, family support groups, African American and Hispanic heritage projects, fire departments, sports teams and more. Good community beckons inside the restaurant, too — Mexico creates a fun, festive vibe with friendly staff.

2. Tie: En Su Boca; Pepe’s Mexican Restaurant 

Naan from Lemon Cuisine of India (Photo by Isaac Harrell)

3215 W. Broad St., 804-204-1800

Killer appetizers such as the lasooni gobhi (crisp-fried cauliflower tossed in a tangy tomato glaze; you can also get it with chicken) supplement a menu of Indian classics, plus lamb, goat and seafood options. Visit during lunch — it’s a smorgasbord complete with soup, a special side, rice, naan and dessert for $12.

The Daily Kitchen & Bar

2934 W. Cary St., 804-342-8990; 12201 W. Broad St., 804-360-3800

Mike Flynn, chef of The Daily Carytown, strives to “be here for everybody — we take the greatest care to prevent cross-contamination, especially when cooking gluten-free,” he says. “We use fresh knives, gloves, cutting boards and follow our in-house procedure for each gluten-free order.” Flynn says the No. 1 seller is gluten-free pizza, but he also praises the shrimp al fresco with either gluten-free noodles or zoodles. “It’s light and fresh.”

3. Tie: Pinky’s; Tio Pablo

Brittany Schmitt, assistant manager of the Midlothian Burger Bach, has sampled the simple, fresh “bach” cuisine the multi-location burger spot is modeled after while visiting New Zealand, where their food is GMO-free, translating the same vision to the restaurant. But what makes a juicy burger? “They’re individually patted, shaped and pressed by hand, daily, by the hundreds,” Schmitt says. “Our prep cooks are legendary.”

This fast-food chain, made up of independently franchised locations, employs more than 5,000 workers, with stores in every state, excluding Alaska. One thing they all have in common? Customers are presented a heaping helping of Five Guys’ regular or Cajun boardwalk-style fries. Check out their secret menu item — nacho fries, coated in hot, melted, classic Kraft American cheese.

Sub Rosa (Photo by Eileen Mellon)

620 N. 25th St., 804-788-7672

Beloved for their wood-fired pastries and naturally leavened breads, Sub Rosa Bakery has been a fixture in Church Hill for a decade. Their secret? Locally grown, stone-ground flour from small farmers in Virginia and Pennsylvania. “Fresh flour tastes better,” explains Sub Rosa Bakery co-owner Evrim Dogu. “And stone-ground is more nutritious. … Most important of all, buying directly means we know exactly what we are supporting ecologically and economically.”

2. Tie: Pearl’s Bake Shoppe; Shyndigz

3. Tie: Idle Hands Bread Co.; Westhampton Pastry Shop

718 N. Cleveland St., 804-729-7340; 2400 Jefferson Ave., 804-562-1208

North End Juice Co. first opened in 2016 with a single blender and juicer. Today, it is a well-known and loved Richmond superfood spot known known for fresh juices, wellness shots and smoothies at both of its locations. The North End crew recommend first-timers try the fuego wellness shot or the blue suede shoes smoothie.

2. The Pit and the Peel

3. Ms. Bee’s Juice Bar

21 S. Allen Ave., 804-939-5310

Nate Mathews approached bagel baking with the mind of an engineer, and the end result  was pretty close to perfection. After two years of carb-filled research, Mathews opened Nate’s in 2018, and it’s been a line-out-the-door kind of spot ever since. Where else can you find a bagel banh mi with braised pork belly and funky pickled radishes on the same menu with a traditional lox bagel?

4930 Forest Hill Ave., 3121 W. Broad St., 26 N. Morris St.

Grab a cup of Black Dog at Blanchard’s, and you might notice that it’s described as having notes of mango and blueberry. How? Because the folks at Blanchard’s are absolute bean wizards, and that’s exactly what you’ll taste when you take a first sip. Blanchard’s is a champion of complexity and depth of flavor, and that mantra is practiced at each of its three locations every morning. They serve A-plus pour-overs, too.

2904 W. Moore St., 804-359-5970

With a high-energy, no-frills breakfast done right, Moore Street Cafe stays bustling. “It’s a party, and everyone is welcome,” says owner Charlie Hughes. A stop at the Scott’s Addition diner is incomplete without a stack of flapjacks and a wallet-friendly mimosa pitcher. Allowing more patrons to get their pancake on, this year saw the debut of their outside “Moore-Mosa Bar” and picnic area.

SB's Love Shack (Photo by Eileen Mellon)

6935 Lakeside Ave., 804-922-2371; 2600 W. Main St., 804-214-4222

Thinking back to the days when going to grandma’s house meant a full belly, SB’s Love Shack owner Sarabeth Hagen opened her first restaurant with only five tables and three menu items. Now, with a second location on Main Street, Hagen compares the two restaurants to a country mouse and a city mouse: “Food is awesome, service is the best, music is pumping, but you’re going to Grandma’s house in Lakeside and your cool aunt’s house in the city.”

2410 Ownby Lane, 804-420-2420 ; 820 Sanctuary Trail Drive, 804-420-2420

Hardywood has cemented its place as a Richmond institution over the past decade, not only for crafting award-winning beer using Virginia-sourced ingredients such as blackberries, pumpkins, peaches, honey and ginger, but also for being leaders in environmental stewardship. Hardywood was the first brewery in the state powered entirely by renewable energies, including solar, biomass and wind.  

A standout in the 3% of vodkas that are made from potatoes, as opposed to grain, Cirrus is one of the producers putting Richmond on the map for craft booze. “Cirrus holds a gold medal from the World Spirits Competition … and has been the fastest-growing nonflavored vodka in Virginia the past two years,” says Tom Ellington, sales and marketing director.

Photo by Joey Wharton, courtesy Belle Isle Moonshine

A few years ago, the hard seltzer craze came in hot, and the effervescent, low-cal drinks have stuck around ever since. In 2019, Belle Isle Moonshine introduced its own canned options, with flavors such as transfusion, as well as the most recent cherry-lime drive in collaboration with the Richmond Flying Squirrels. “Canned cocktails have opened up new channels … and overall makes Belle Isle Moonshine that much more accessible,” says Director of Marketing Brandon Day.

Once Upon a Vine has made a name for itself by featuring a vast array of hard-to-find wines and beers — and some other prized rarities. “People may not know that we do a heck of a lot of business in retro candies,” says owner Bob Kocher. “Wax bottles and lips, candy mustaches, Necco wafers, Clark bars … you don’t see them around in other stores anymore.”

3. Second Bottle Wine & Snack Shop 

Blue Bee Cider (Photo by Jay Paul)

“Our guiding motto is to draw a circle and invite everyone in,” says Blue Bee’s outreach director, Brian Ahnmark.  “We’ve got ciders for all kinds of people, for all kinds of reasons: single varietals from Colonial times, vinous-style ciders, which combine apple and grape; we’ve smoked some of our ciders. … We’ve got products for beer fans, wine fans, spirits fans.”

3120 W. Cary St., 804-358-7274

The unofficial anchor of Carytown — as everything around it seems to change — Can Can Brasserie has remained rooted as the reliable spot for a Parisian-inspired breakfast, people-watching and a killer happy hour. Speaking of, their moules frites happy hour, Sunday dinner service and their burger will soon return for the first time since the pandemic.

2. The Daily Kitchen & Bar 

1213-1215 Summit Ave., 804-353-0111

“What I believe sets us apart is our space … the owner collects kitschy things like funny license plates, modern art and plants, and we have a beautiful beer garden,” says Amanda Carter Fritts, general manager. “We have an indoor/outdoor feel where people of all ages feel comfortable. And we serve breakfast all day! Chicken and waffles at 9 o’clock at night? It doesn’t get better than that.”

Photo by Molly Peterson, courtesy Midlothian Chefs Kitchen

Since opening in 2021, Midlothian Chef’s Kitchen has become a regional standout that’s even managed to entice the downtown crowd to travel across the river for dinner. Helmed by chef and co-owner David Dunlap — whose resume includes stints at three-Michelin-star standout The Inn at Little Washington and Quirk Hotel’s Maple & Pine — the restaurant marks a step onto his own culinary path and presents everything from wine dinners to a chef’s table experience and cooking classes.

2. Tie: The Boathouse; Sergio’s 

3. Tie: Burger Bach; Charred; Howlett’s Restaurant & Tavern; Tazza Kitchen

Julep’s New Southern Cuisine    

420 E. Grace St., 804-377-3968

Julep’s owner Amy Ayers says she “fell in love with high-end Southern cuisine” while traveling to Charleston, South Carolina; Atlanta; and Savannah, Georgia. “I knew if I ever opened another restaurant in Richmond, that’s the kind of food I wanted to serve,” she says. Ayers, the former owner of Cabo’s Corner Bistro, thanks her loyal staff and customers for supporting her through 20 years of mint juleps and perfectly fried green tomatoes.

Joe's Inn (Photo by Rob Hendricks)

205 N. Shields Ave., 804-355-2282; 2616 Buford Road, 804-320-9700

A common Venn diagram shows “cheap,” “good” and “fast” with only the tiniest intersection of the three. Joe’s Inn is that spot — though we’d call Joe’s Greek-Italian-American diner fare “affordable” rather than the C-word. What’s part of their secret? In the tradition of a Greek kaffenion, they serve local Rostov’s coffee, Trial & Error Distillery limoncello, and house-baked breads and desserts. An in-house pastry program is less expensive than wholesale buying, but it is swiftly disappearing in many places. Come to think of it, so is the independent diner serving both breakfast and late-night dinner. We’re thankful Joe’s Inn continues the tradition.

3. Tie: Bocata Arepa Bar; Charlotte’s Southern Deli and Tapas 

Red Salt Chophouse & Sushi’s surf and turf cheeseburger (Photo by Katie Brown)

Red Salt Chophouse & Sushi   

12221 W. Broad St., 804-360-8080

This steakhouse-sushi bar combo is one of the best date-night spots in the West End, with painstaking attention given to every dish on its lengthy menu. Fresh fish, gorgeous beef, excellent service and top-notch wine choices (the 2006 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blanc is on there right now) make Red Salt a memorable experience.

Dot’s Back Inn chef/co-owner Jimmy Tsamouras covered his kitchen shifts to attend a 2015 wedding in Greece and returned to find his restaurant finessed. “My staff were doing well without me,” Tsamouras jokes. “I needed a job.” Two years later he opened Demi’s, named for his daughter, and unlocked the door to Greek, Lebanese, Moroccan, Tunisian and Turkish cuisine on the North Side, favoring warm spices, seafood and a banging preserved lemon vinaigrette.

Blue Atlas (Photo by Eileen Mellon)

Located inside the former Robert Fulton School and helmed by husband-and-wife team Ben Watters and Rachel Best, Blue Atlas offers a little bit of everything. From a workspace with a view to a neighborhood market that’s perfect for a snack pit stop, to a restaurant influenced by global flavors with vegan bites in the mix, this East End respite checks all the boxes.

4702 Forest Hill Ave., 804-230-8743

This “tropical diner” from the Giavos family is known for fun, orchid-garnished plates and mood-altering cocktails such as the mezcal- and rum-based sharpshooter. But where the Nickel truly shines is with its shareables, like the flaming pu-pu, a fire-centric platter of beef skewers, crab rangoons and lumpia, and the ruby in the rough, a boozy punchbowl with rum, falernum, brandy and a tongue-tingling combo of citrus and spice.

415 N. First St., 804-225-7449

“I’m in the business of making people feel good, whether it be with our food or interacting with our staff,” says co-owner Lester Johnson. “People don’t go out to feel bad.” What feels good lately is Mama J’s new brisket sandwich, always the hotline bling — mac and cheese and greens — and Johnson’s grandmother’s pineapple-coconut cake, which the wise get boxed to go before even glancing at a menu.

623 N. 25th St., 804-658-1935

Hitting its decade mark last summer, this Southern-tinged neighborhood restaurant has entered a new era in recent years with new co-owner — and seasoned restaurateur — Mark Herndon and a fresh voice in the kitchen with executive chef Leah Branch. ”We’ve had a great run for sure, but it feels like now we are really getting into a different kind of groove,” says co-owner Kendra Feather. Stay tuned for the return of brunch.

1201 E. Cary St., 804-782-9555

“We’ve gone from being a fern bar filled with tobacco-related artwork to a more open, clean Art Deco aesthetic,” says David Campbell, Tobacco Company’s communications and marketing director. The three-story dining and “entertainment complex” has live music Friday-Sunday, multiple dining rooms, a cocktail lounge and a dance floor with a DJ. “Every day is different,” Campbell says. “We make memories here.”

2. Tie: Bottoms Up Pizza; Old Original Bookbinder’s Seafood & Steakhouse; The Hard Shell 

This hoppin’ Hanover hot spot is where residents pull up to grab a midweek pint and end up rubbing elbows with neighbors and spotting a familiar face or three. Traditional bar nosh, 20 taps, kid-friendly vibes and weekly live music make this a destination for brunch, dinner and all the in-between moments. Fun fact: The Executive 1 burger is named for co-owner Sarah Chapman’s grandfather, who developed Industrial Air Park where the restaurant is located.

1910 Byrd Ave., Suite 100 Richmond, VA 23230 804-355-0111

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