“Summer wouldn’t be a thing without fresh mackerel. It’s a fish that has an undeniable affinity with smoky fires and searing coals – they seem drawn together,” says Gill Meller.

“This is a particularly delicious way to cook fillets of mackerel or whole fish. The flavours I’m using are punchy, but the fish carry them all beautifully. I usually serve them with warm, crusty bread and a salad of ripe tomatoes and basil, dressed with salt, red wine vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil.”

2tsp smoked paprika1tbsp extra-virgin olive oilFinely grated zest of 1 lemon2 garlic cloves, gratedA small handful of oregano, leaves picked and chopped1 rosemary sprig, leaves picked and chopped1tbsp black peppercorns, crushed4 very fresh mackerel filletsSea salt

1. Combine the smoked paprika with the oil, lemon zest, garlic, oregano, rosemary and peppercorns and season with salt.

2. Use the back of a spoon to spread the garlic mixture out over each fillet. Light your fire and when you have a bed of hot, glowing embers, set the mackerel fillets, skin-side down, on the grill. Cook for four to five minutes. You’ll notice the flesh change colour as it cooks. When the mackerel’s nearly done, turn the fillets and give them a further one minute on the other side.

3. Carefully lift the mackerel off the grill to a plate, and serve.

Outside: Recipes For A Wilder Way Of Eating by Gill Meller is published by Quadrille, priced £30. Photography by Andrew Montgomery. Available now.

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