This Year’s ‘World’s Best Restaurant’ Took the Title After Ditching Meat

2022-10-09 04:26:27 By : Mr. Frank Young

In July, as host Stanley Tucci announced the winners of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants during a gala event in London, chef Rasmus Kofoed’s team sat in the audience holding hands—and their breaths.

Kofoed’s Copenhagen restaurant, Geranium, made its debut on the World’s Best list in 2009, just two years after opening. Since that auspicious beginning, he has earned the restaurant three Michelin stars, been named Denmark’s “chef of the year” and won the Bocuse d’Or, the esteemed international culinary competition held each year in Lyon, France. (He’s also won both the bronze and silver Bocuse, the only chef ever to do so in the event’s history.) It’s an impressive list of accomplishments and accolades, but when Tucci announced Geranium as the World’s Best Restaurant for 2022, it validated a seismic change at the establishment: Kofoed’s recent decision to take meat off the menu.

One of America's Best Pasta Makers Is Opening a Tuscan Steakhouse in Chicago

Two of NYC's Most Acclaimed Restaurants Just Lost Their Michelin Stars. Here's Who Made the Cut.

At Chez Noir, a Michelin 3-Star Standout Finally Leads His Own Restaurant

“I was full of tears and emotion,” he recalls of the win. “It was a magical moment, and I was really touched.”

The chef had eliminated meat from his own diet five years ago, he says, and had begun to feel disingenuous serving animal-based dishes. In January, after a pandemic-induced period of reflection and restlessness, Kofoed made the decision, following in the footsteps of Eleven Madison Park in New York and San Francisco’s Atelier Crenn, to remove meat from the menu.

It required a major overhaul, he says. “We changed the menu completely—that was the biggest challenge for me, to say goodbye to some of the signature dishes.” But ultimately “it just made more sense: My food shows the Danish landscape and my own personality, so it didn’t make sense to create meat dishes. I want to give diners the experience of food that I like to eat.”

That personal connection is evident in one of newest dishes on the fall dinner menu (a three-hour experience starting around $500): “Abstract of brown crab” is inspired by a summer spent fishing with his three children on the island of Samsø, off Denmark’s east coast. There had been an earlier iteration of the dish, but it didn’t meet Kofoed’s strict standards. Something wasn’t sitting right.

“I’m a very ambitious guy, and I was just not satisfied,” he says. “It was good, and I could probably have served it and people would have been happy. But I was just not happy with it.”

But during one outing with his kids (who he says are exceptionally good crab fishers), he took the time to study a crab’s anatomy, carefully inspecting the tail, legs and claw. Back in the kitchen, he re-created the crustacean on the plate using pickled kohlrabi, arranging the cabbage to mimic legs and claws. The meat is mixed with a crab reduction, flavored with a charcoal-infused oil and dusted with seaweed powder. It’s then placed in a butter-and-herb sauce studded with caviar. “When we did that, it was boom,” he says. “It was great and just made sense.”

Also new: chopsticks, a fond childhood memory for Kofoed, which the restaurant will incorporate as a way to force diners to slow down and consider the food. “With chopsticks you have to work with your fingers, connect with your brain before tasting,” Kofoed says. “I think it’s a beautiful way of eating.” The utensils will be used with salted and smoked Danish mackerel served with seaweed in a cold vegetable broth made from tomato water and topped with smoked oil. Despite the menu’s new direction, the dish is vintage Kofoed: clever, deeply personal and as vibrant and complex as the Danish landscape that inspired it.

The Ultimate Guide to Wagyu Beef, the World's Most Luxurious Steak

Why a Heritage Turkey Is the Best Thanksgiving Bird—and How to Get One

The 10 Best Wines to Pair With Steak, From Cabernet to Malbec

Sign up for Robb Report's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

Click here to read the full article.

Want something ultra cozy but cute enough to wear in public? Look no further.

This clean skincare favorite with thousands of five-star reviews uses dermatologist-recommended ingredients to treat saggy skin, crow's feet, dark circles and more.

Universally flattering, waist-cinching, smoothing, slimming: You need these in your life.

Scoop up a best-selling electric toothbrush for $20 off and a mega-popular blow dryer at a sweet discount.

Leva Bonaparte and Naomie Olindo know that this season of "Southern Charm" had its confusing moments. Gibson Johns interviews the duo, who attended JBL Fest in Las Vegas together last week, about all things Season 8 of the Charleston-set series, including their respective dramas with Craig Conover and the context around each of their fights with him. They also discuss the "raw" upcoming reunion that they hope fills in the gaps for viewers, where they stand with Venita Aspen, why Leva skipped out on the second cast trip, what they want to see on the show moving forward and much more.

Whether you're looking for a gift or for personal essentials, Walmart has you covered — and these 15 cult favorites are a great place to get started. Many of the gems are exclusive to Walmart, like Billy Joel on vinyl, Drew Barrymore's kitchen accessories and The Pioneer Woman's home line, so you'll only be able to shop them here.

We quizzed these NYCC cosplayers to see how much they know!

With 9,000+ five-star Amazon reviews, you'll want to add this number to your wardrobe...stat.

Be a holiday hero: Stock up on this super-affordable gift for the people on your list who most need to chill out.

The actress praised her dancing partner for being a part of her journey.